So Eric and I have are in our eight week at post. That's almost as long as we were with our host familys in training, and it feels both longer and shorter. I've probably said this before but it's often said that the days are long here but the weeks are short, and I definitely think this is true. Everyday seems to go by pretty slowly, mostly because I haven't been doing that much yet in the way of work. But on the other hand a week passes in an instant, and it's hard to believe we've already been here for so long!
Eric explained a lot about his job this week, so I'll talk about mine. I'm partnered with an NGO here who works on things like hygiene and sanitation, waste management, and other projects. There are a lot of NGOs here in Benin, some of them Beninese and some from other countries, and they all seem to do a lot of different projects that may or may not be related, so I'm not exactly sure how my NGO fits into this network. I have a counterpart/work partner who is supposed to take me around introduce me to people, and support me in the projects that I do. My NGO wants me to work with women's groups following up some projects that they did together in the past. Women's groups here are a really important organizational unit within society and great people to work with, since they tend to be open to projects to help them. So far I've met a few groups, plus the "chefs de village" of many of the neighborhoods/villages around here (I guess that could be translated as "village chiefs" but I think the word "chief" maybe evokes an image of something that it shouldn't. Really these men are just elders in the community who speak for the neighborhood/village when necessary.) For most of these meetings my counterpart has taken me around on his moto (actually a huge moto-cross style dirtbike, which I feel a little silly riding around on) and helped translate from Adja/Fon into French. However, I did have to go to a few on my own which was not as bad as I thought it would be. The hardest part isn't meeting the people and being scrutinized, because I'm used to that by now, and besides, the women want me to help them so they appreciate my presence. Really the hardest part for me was the translation from French into Adja- young men from the villages served as the translators for these meetings, and I can't help but wonder how much is lost in translation. Here's an example of the proceedings of these meetings: I introduce myself, say why I'm here and that I want to help the women help themselves, and I ask what they want me to do with them. This is translated, and their response is translated back as "yes" or "we accept your help," neither of which are exactly responses to my question. I ask again what the women want to do with me, and they tell me they want money/seeds/equipment etc. I say that I have none of this to offer as I'm not here to give or spend money except when we have specific projects developed, and again ask what they want me to do with them. The translator tells me their response, which is "we want seeds." This goes on and on and as you can see it's difficult to explain things to people when you don't speak their language! It's nobody's fault that this happens of course, but it is something that I can see being an obstacle to working effectively.
Another frustration has been that circumstances have kept my counterpart and me from having a meeting in a while, so I haven't been doing any work really for the past two weeks or so, and won't do much until he and I plan out my schedule for the next few weeks. Thus I've had ample free time, which, after living in an extremely fast-paced, stressful environment (i.e. University), is nice but also somewhat bewildering sometimes. Eric and I pass the time with a lot of reading. I also have been practicing banjo, working on planting a garden, and studying for the GRE. This is an important source of intellectual stimulation for me! In my former environment every moment was filled with something intellectual- now Eric and I are missing that and although we have each other and other volunteers to talk to we obviously aren't in a university-like setting where we are constantly being challenged intellectually. We'll get used to this I'm sure, but it's certainly a new feeling.
Both Eric and I are taking Adja lessons now. We take them apart usually since I go a bit slower than Eric and also because the types of things he wants to know aren't what I want to know. It's actually pretty fun and getting a little bit easier. I doubt I'll ever get fluent (although I think I already speak more than most PCVs in the region) but what I do learn will certainly help me integrate into the community as well as in my work with people here. Already we try to speak a little Adja in the market or when we go out to eat, and people love it!
I'll describe a typical weekday in our lives here. Eric and I wake up around 7 (the sun rises at around 6:15 usually, by the way). We eat breakfast, which is either sweet bread that we toast in a pan with some margarine, oatmeal, eggs, or baguette bread with something on it. At 8 Eric goes to school and I stay home and do yoga or read or some other pastime. I might also have a meeting with my counterpart, and I might have errands to run like going to the tailors, buying eggs and bread, etc. At noon Eric is finished so sometimes we meet for lunch at a place where we can get beans with gari (ground dried manioc which is like a topping here) or rice or pasta. We might also buy beans and gari to bring home (everything can be brought home in a little black sachet) or we might prepare sandwhiches or something at home. In the afternoon it gets really hot so we generally read or sometimes I take a nap, and sometimes we hang out with our postmate. In the late afternoon we might take a walk, a bike ride, or just go buy supplies for dinner. For dinner we almost always prepare something, and although the ingredients are pretty limited compared to what we're used to back in the states, we actually eat really well. The only complaint is the lack of fresh vegetables besides tomatoes, okra, and gboma (a type of green) but hopefully having a garden will help that. After dinner we might play a game of cards or scrabble with our postmate, or just read some more. And of course we have dishes to do, which we wash in large basins out in our courtyard. Then around 10 or 10:30 we usually fall asleep.
On weekends our days are pretty similar except we often take bike rides to nearby villages just to get out and get some exercise.
So know you have a better idea of what life is like for us here. Of course we have times when we are down and not necessarily "happy" to be here, but on the whole we are content and really glad we came. Especially as we become more integrated we begin to enjoy our time here more. And I'm really excited to use my Adja to tell kids to stop calling me "yovo" which is really starting to annoy me! I know it's not meant as something negative on their part but it's hard to ignore my own upbrining that taught me that pointing out someone's race is actually not a nice thing at all. Not to mention hearing that word many, many times a day, often accompanied by an irritating song, would annoy anyone!
I think that's all I have for now. I hope it's interesting and informative, and ask if you want to know anything! I'll probably write within a month. And here are some pictures of our house to give you an idea of what our living conditions are like here. It's not what we're used to but it's not mud hut either. I'd say we actually live a pretty posh lifestyle here!
The front of our house:

The kitchen:

Half of the living room (the other half contains more furniture!):

And one more picture, a view from our back door of the lovely sunset. The sky is really stunning here almost all the time, I think mostly because there is less atmospheric pollution in the villages than we are used to in the US and Cotonou.
7 comments:
Dear Sheena and Eric,
I loved seeing the pictures of your house and hearing the description of your days. Sheena, it does sound like your work situation is maybe a bit frustrating. But just making a life in a new and unknown place is always interesting. Eric's description of teaching in his October post was achingly, distressingly familiar. This is exactly what rural schools in Kenya are like (urban ones are definitely somewhat better) - teacher dominated classrooms and a complete lack of any notion of teaching critical or analytical thinking, or of using it really. I have had long talks with my African friends, too, about the damage done to a person by the constant corporal punishment. Hitting students for doing poorly on their math exams, I believe, might actually have globally negative consequences. And of course the whole education system tends to produce adults that just say "yes" to any question you pose them in an effort to be agreeable. The good news is that, at least in Kenya, there are movements afoot to change the education system. A lot of this is led by the Aga Khan Fdn (as you may know, the Aga Khan is the head of the "3rd" muslim sect, the Ismaeli muslims and he does lots of charitable works - is the Aga Khan a visible presence in Benin at all?). But it will be slow trickling down. Sheena, i was also struck by your efforts to ask the women what they might want from you besides material stuff. I find that in Kenya it is very hard for people to imagine or ask for help that is not explicitly material or monetary. Either people just don't have any idea of how to use human power or they are reluctant to ask, or both. But I have always felt like it is the same kind of phenomenon that Eric described in the classroom -- people are just not taught to bring their critical thinking skills to bear on problems. Asking for money or stuff is the easy way out and all that they have imagined doing (to be fair, it may be all that they really need sometimes).
All for now, I will also send an email.
Aunt Susan
Hey Sheena: I love your pictures and hope you like the Peace Corp. I'm really busy so some time away from school for breaks will be good. I am taking the SAT review course and I will be teaching for Powder Hounds full time this year. I didn't want to stick with the piano in middle school but now I'm really glad I did, well mom made me anyway. I listen to classical all the time. School is really hard this year with new teachers so I need a Christmas break. Mom has a really nice Christmas package with some great stuff and pictures in it for you. Oh yeah, she put a great present in it just for you. I helped pick it out. Well, I had better get back to my math homework.
Love, Marshall
Hey you guys!
I just received news from the placement office and I will be serving in Senegal! I am so excited! I leave mid-March and I can't wait. The pictures of your house were great and I loved hearing about your daily life!
Dearest Sheena
Wonderful letter and pictures and I am enjoying hearing from you via blog. I like reading the other comments as well.
It sounds to me that you like where you are and what you are doing despite the limitations.
I am sending a letter by snail mail today. Know that I love you and think of you and Eric every day.
Grandma Alberts
Hi S&E!! This is your dad, Sheena. Just got back from a long bike ride where I got hailed on. A bit different from your weather, eh? What did you guys do for Thanksgiving? We went out to the farm as usual. I even rode my bike there as it was a sunny (if cold) day. Nothing like working up an appetite!. Of course, we ate dead bird cooked on the BBQ. Beats tofurkey every day!
I was watching Nature last week and saw the most interesting show about a village in Cameroon. It really made me wonder what your village is like. The story was about a termite infestation, which destroyed a family's roof on the house and was threatening their granary, which was a big big deal since their millet crop was their primary food source. The oldest "wise man" said some prayers that didn't work, so he concluded that he had to ask the help of "Jagra" (the army ant). He first had to ask the Chief's permission and that gave me a sense of the protocols you must be dealing with (of course it was all men involved - no women). He sent the kids out to scout out a nest. In the process, they gathered up a big bunch of tasty insects which their moms sauteed and they ate for dinner. These bugs were huge and the people loved them. It looked like they were eating shrimp or something like that - definitely muscular "meat" and not just guck. Eventually, the kids found an ant nest. The elder said a prayer and they dug up a bunch of army ants and put them in a pottery jar, took it back and loosed the ants on the termite mound. The ants attacked and drove the termites out of the house, killing many in the process. I was really struck at how different the villagers' attitude toward bugs was than ours is. Some were friends, some were enemies, some were food, and some were good for toys for the kids (one mom tied a huge moth to an infant's finger with some thread and the kid was enthralled. I won't soon forget the image of all these young kids climbing trees and beating the bushes for big fat insects which they deposited in the folded smock of the littlest one (he couldn't have been more than 4 yrs. old). Can you imagine Helen eating a big praying mantis??
Well, that's all for now. We love and miss you and think of you often. Hope things get busier soon for you.
sheena and eric!!!!
your house is beautiful! i got your letter and will be writing you back soon... i've been taking an african music class this past semester and have been listening to a lot of different music from all over africa. some of it is amazing, and every time i listen to it i think of you and eric out there! haha. i'm so happy to hear that you are trying so hard to integrate into the community and i'm sure the longer you are there the more accepting people will be (especially because they will see you are putting effort in to do so). miss you dearly. much love, kelly
Greetings from Washington, DC.
Amanda provided me with the link to your blog today, so that I can read it while procrastinating at work.
Your house looks cozy. I hope I can find something as accommodating when I make the move to New Orleans in a few weeks.
I was drinking beers with some Reed alumns last night, and one did a stint in the Peace Corps. He e said it frequently got to the point that you read everything you had to read 4 times, and there was just nothing to do all day. I hope you are spared the same fate. Maybe the cheap spirits will help the time fly by?
Any how, maybe I will leave more substantive thoughts once I have the opportunity to read through your guys' posts (while not on the senators' dime).
Take care!
D.Toff
P.S. I've had a few enlightening chats with Dre, and we're meeting about the first few Young Gumz tracks between Christmas and New Years. More updates as they happen.
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